LGT-STK-S
- It takes about
- 1-2hrs
- It costs about
- 10€
- Difficulty
- Medium
- License
-
Light Stick Small
By following the instructions below and/or downloading the linked files you agree to the specified license agreement.
Tools
3d printer
Multimeter
Soldering iron
Flathead Screwdriver
Material
Coloured Filament - PETG
Electric cable - 22 AWG
Heat shrink tube
Thermal Glue
Components
Magnet round - 12 x 6 mm
O-ring - 8 x 14 x 3 mm
Electronic components
Downloads
1 Overview
2 Printing
Wise advice
3D printed parts: if you don’t have a 3D printer you can produce the pieces in your local FabLab or order them online.
2.1. STK-S - Printing
After downloading the files (3D print section above), print the pieces with the following printing settings:
Nozzle:0.4 mm
Material: PETG
Infill: 15%
Perimeters: 3
3 Preparation
3.2. STK-S - Cutting the heat-shrink tubing
Insert the HS through all cables D, the black cable A and one of the red cables C before soldering.
After soldering, place the HS over the soldered area and let it shrink on it using a heating gun or carefully using a lighter.
Wise advice
Perform this step by yourself if you have the right competences otherwise check this guide or look for support at your local Fablab
Attention
Don’t flip it. Solder the transistor on the flat surface
3.3. STK-S - Solder the circuit
Adjust the STEP-UP board to 4V by turning the screw on the board helping yourself with a multimeter and a screwdriver.
Start soldering the components as in the scheme.
Warning
BE CAREFUL! Solder the battery to the rest of the circuit only at the very end!
Before connecting the battery to the circuit, make sure you have already set the potentiometer on the step-up board according to the given voltage.
Warning
BE CAREFUL WHEN SOLDERING ON THE BATTERY TERMINALS.
Apply as little heat as possible and be as fast as possible, do not overheat the battery. Excessive heat can damage 18650 cells and in rare cases also ignite them.
3.5. STK-S - Soldering the battery
Solder the cables on the BMS. Solder the cables on the battery terminals.
Isolate the battery, cover its ends completely with insulation tape and then fix the BMS on the pole (+) with more tape.
Attention
Fix the LED! Use thermal paste or thermal adhesive to stick the LED to the heatsink
3.6. STK-S - Complete electrical circuit
Warning
If by any chance during the testing process the battery starts to overheat, quickly disconnect it from the circuit, bring it outside, toss it in a sand-filled container and bury it with more sand. Wait until the reaction is done, then contact your local recycling center to dispose of it.
3.7. STK - Testing
Make sure that the battery is charged, help yourself with a multimeter if needed. If the battery is fully charged, it will show a voltage of 4.2V.
Tap on the touch sensor and try to switch the light on and off a few times, making sure all works well.
If everything works follow up with the assembly, otherwise check the circuit and try to identify which component is causing the issue.
4 Assembly
4.1. STK-S - Fitting the LED
Start by carefully insering the LED and heatsink into the spotlight body
4.2. STK-S - Securing the circuit
Insert the battery and BMS but do not push them all the way through
Slide the STEP-UP board onto the cap -make sure to follow the right orientation
Insert the TOUCH SENSOR into the cap cover -make sure the touch surface is facing up
On the back of the cap, hold the TRANSITOR and slide the cap carefully inside
4.3. STK-S - Inserting the magnet
Insert the magnet and o-ring into the slot.
Once it is half way through help yourself by tapping the body on a surface to facilitate the sliding all the way through to the end.
Once everything is inside make sure that the cap is not sticking out and is flush with the edge of the body.
Test again the touch sensor by tapping on the cap of the spotlight. The battery has a duration of approximately 12 hours.