SPK-L

It takes about
3-10 hours
It costs about
80 €
Difficulty
Medium
License

Speaker Large

BEFORE YOU START

By following the instructions below and/or downloading the linked files you agree to the specified license agreement.

Tools

3d printer

3d printer

Handsaw

Handsaw

Cutter

Cutter

Soldering iron

Soldering iron

Multimeter

Multimeter

Screw_driver

Screw_driver

Drill

Drill

File

File

Material

Double sided tape

Double sided tape - VHB 3M

PVC tubes

PVC tubes - 25mm Diameter

Coloured Filament

Coloured Filament - PETG

Heat shrink tube

Heat shrink tube

Electric cable

Electric cable - 18AWG

Components

Weights

Weights - 2kg

O-ring

O-ring

Metric screw

Metric screw - M3 X 10MM

Electronic components

40W - 32mm Exciter 4Ω
Dayton DAEX32EP-4
2 x 50W - Bluetooth Amplifier
TSA3118B(TWS/Apt-X)
24V 2.5A - AC/DC Power Supply
Barrel Plug Center Positive 2.1 x 5.5 mm
DC female Jack
2.1mm - 5.5mm
Region Specific AC power Plug
110 or 230 VAC
We work hard to keep our links and components list updated, but It might happen that some of the components get discontinued. If you notice any anomalies with one of our components please let us know.

1 Overview

1.1. SPK-L - Components scheme

2 Printing

Wise advice

3D printed parts: if you don’t have a 3D printer you can produce the pieces in your local FabLab or order them online

2.1. SPK-L - Standard filament

After downloading the files (3D print section above), print the pieces with the following printing settings:

Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Material: PETG
Infill: 15%
Infill-membrane holder: 40%
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Perimeters: 3

2.2. SPK-L - PRINTING THE BASE

Printing the bases:

Nozzle: 1.2 mm, for a riffle effect download our Prusa Slicer Settings
Material: PETG
Layer height: 0.8 mm

3 Preparation

3.1. SPK-L - Cutting of the membrane

Choose among (printed or coloured) cardboard. We suggest corugated carboard with a thickness of at least 3mm.

Draw two half circles on the cardboard and cut them with a cutter.

3.2. SPK-L - Cutting of the decorative layers

Choose among (printed or coloured) cardboards or fabrics (felt)


Draw the outline by hand two times and cut it with a cutter or ask your local fablab to cut it with a laser cutter.

3.3. SPK-L - Finalising one decorative surface

Draw the circles and cut them precisely with the cutter.

4 Assembly

4.1. SPK-L - Lamination

Lamination should be performed with a specialized machine or with spray glue and a lot of patience.

If you chose the second method glue from the center out and be careful not to create air bubbles.

4.2. SPK-L - Preparing the supports

Apply double sided tape on the designed surfaces and refine the glueing surface cutting following the borders with the cutter.

4.3. SPK-L - Mounting the supports

Glue carefully and perpendicularly the amplifier holder in the designated slot


Cut and apply VHB tape in the designated spots for the exciters


Glue the larger surface of the 3D printed holder onto the VHB sticky part and the smaller surface to the exciter.

4.4. SPK-L - CUTTING THE CABLE COVERS

4.5. SPK-L - Cutting and sanding the tube

Cut the tube into the given length, we recommend the use of a metal saw for a clean cut. Make sure to have a straight cut


Make sure to correct and refine the cut using sand paper and/or a file.
Sand the complete length of the tube using a 220-grit sandpaper, this will optimise the grip of the finishing.


Clean the whole surface with rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth.

4.6. SPK-L - MAIN POWER CONNECTION

Solder the cable C to the cables running inside the SPK tube.

4.7. SPK - INSERTING THE O-RINGS

Slide the two o-rings inside the slots on the amplifier holder.

4.8. SPK-L - CONNECTING THE TUBE TO THE SUPPORT

Inser the membrane connector inside the pvc tube. Make sure the connection is tight and secure.

4.9. SPK-L - ATTACHING THE AMP TO THE STRUCTURE

Screw the flexible board holder on the membrane connector.

 

Insert the board inside the holder: slightly pull the 3d printed piece, slot the amp inside the c-clips, slowly release the 3d printed board connector.

4.10. SPK-L - ATTACHING THE EXCITERS TO THE AMP

Solder the exciter cable to the exciter connectors. While soldering, mind the polarity.

 

Connect the other side of the cable to the Amp.

4.11. SPK - Finalization of the tube

Mark and drill three aligned holes on one end of the tube.


Use the file to precisely refine the slot as illustrated.

4.12. SPK - Drilling the base

Mark the measures precisely on the base pieces.


Carefully switch the soldering station on and heat it up to 200°C. Slowly melt the PLA creating the illustrated slots and holes. Help yourself with a file to refine

4.13. SPK - Solder the jack-plug

Cut the cables at the given length


Take the jack plug, identify the + and - with a multimeter and solder the cables. Secure the soldering with heatshrinks

Warning

BE CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING LEAD.

Use protection gloves, don’t touch your mouth and eyes while touching lead and wash your hands carefully when finished. We strongly recommend putting the lead inside a zip lock bag to prevent particles from exiting the base.

Attention

Be sure to fully cover the jack plug contacts with heatshrink to avoid shorts between the pins and the lead.

4.14. SPK - Adding weight and lid

Insert about 2kg lead inside the bottom piece

Insert the jack plug into the bottom piece fastening it at the hole in the external wall

Pass the cables into the hole into the cilinder of the piece

Slide the top piece into the bottom piece by matching the slots with the holes

Slide the cables through the whole length of the tube

5 SPK-L is ready!

SPK-L